some favorite Paris Restaurants, Bistros, Bars & Bakeries
Not a day goes by when I donโt get a message requesting a restaurant recommendation in Paris. (Curiously, I also get asked for restaurant recommendations in cities Iโve never lived in, or even visited.) My promise to you is that Iโll only write up or recommend places Iโve been to, and with apologies to all whoโve asked for restaurant recommendations on social media, if I answered every request and message, I wouldnโt have time to write up this list for you. Or even go out to eat myself.
I do update my Paris restaurant list when I find a place I like. Similarly, when a restaurant or bistro isnโt what it used to be, I remove it. When I do a more extensive write up of a place, youโll find it listed in my Paris restaurant categories. But other times, when Iโm just going out to dinner, not toting my camera with me (and not remembering all the details the next day), Iโll give it a more general shout-out on my Paris restaurant page. But hereโs a little more to add to that list, as well as some sweet shops and cocktail bars that are worthy of being on your radar.
Brasserie Bellanger (140, rue du Faubourg Poissoniรจre, 10th) is one of the newer of the low(er)-priced bistros that have popped up in Paris over the last few years. The young owners promise everything is fresh and fait maison (homemade), which was a criticism rightly leveled at some of the old-school bistros that lost their luster, noting that the brasserie sources things directly from producers, which allows them to keep prices modest. Our vegetable-centric pollack (above) was nicely cooked, served on a heap of fresh vegetables. The frites we ordered alongside โ because man cannot live by fish alone โ were some of the best Iโve had in town. We finished with an รle flottante filled with mango puree and very good Paris-Brest. The staff is very friendly although if you choose a table outside, expect a majority of the neighboring tables to be occupied smokers.
Another place that Iโve been enjoying, where Iโve not taken a picture at, is Le Mermoz (16, rue Jean Mermoz, 8th). This starkly-decorated bistro allows you to focus on the food, which isnโt just beautifully-presented, but itโs perfectly prepared. A recent lunch started with a plate of lightly blanched green beans with fresh almonds and pickled apricots. Dessert was softly cooked cherries bathed in sabayon with cubes of Gรขteau de Savoie and a sprinkling of fresh elderflowers. The focus is on quality of ingredients and preparation, rather than portion size, at least at lunch, when Iโve dined there. But itโs usually enough for me.
Iโve written about les routiers before, French truck stops known for serving honest, no-nonsense fare, hearty enough for truckers, who need a decent meal to break up the monotony of being on the road. Aux Bons Crus in Paris probably doesnโt get that many truckers, but locals like it because it serves honest French food without a lot of fuss. Recently three women next to us were thrilled to be able to get kidneys, while we shared a Frisรฉe salad with lardons (bacon), rillettes (not my favorite dish on the menu), and ลufs mayo, before digging into mains of straightforward French fare, everything intentionally priced to please camionneurs (truckers), and the rest of us.
Yup, I know itโs not called Bo Bun, but thatโs what they call it in France. (And yes, in France, itโs also cafรฉ express, not an espresso.) If you have a problem with the language, take it up with the Acadรฉmie Franรงaise. Whatever you call it, Bo Bun has become as popular at the Apรฉrol Spritz around town, especially with the twenty-something set. But the one at Lux Cafรฉ (73, rue Saint-Maur, no website) is different than others. The grilled rolls and pork (although itโs available with fried tofu, and yes, with grilled pork the dish is traditionally referred to as Bun Cha) are on a bed of curled up sheets of noodles, rather than the traditional strands of vermicelli.
Thereโs only one thing on the menu and the prices are higher than the other places around town, but I think itโs worth it. If you want to walk up to Belleville, Dong Huong has a pretty good one, too. Actually, at Dong Huong I always get B12 on the menu, do-it-yourself rice paper rolls that you roll up with grilled chicken, fresh herbs, carrots, and rice noodles. It took me a while to get the hang of it; an older Vietnamese waiter saw me struggling the first time and came over to show me how itโs done. Now, Iโm almost a pro, although when I was in Vietnam, when I saw how deftly everyone make their rice paper rolls, and realized how much I still have to learn.
Also on my radar has been Poulette, perhaps the prettiest restaurant in Paris. We went for lunch and started with asparagus bathed in a Chartreuse-tinged mousseline and ลufs mayo, then moved on to an outstanding plate of quail in a sauce of dโAnjou white wine with green peppercorns and fingerling potatoes. Happily, Poulette has fresh fruit juices made to order at the bar, if youโre on lunch break and donโt want to drink wine, but if you come in the evening (or if youโre up for a little day-drinking), thereโs an especially strong list of house-made cocktails.
It was late afternoon when we arrived at Cravan (17, rue Jean de la Fontaine, 16th), so was happy to have a sip of one of the libations of Franck Audoux, the owner of this truly hole-in-the-wall cafรฉ. But what a hole! Designed by Hector Guimard, who designed many of the art nouveau Paris mรฉtro stations, everything at Cravan is pretty, and perfect. Iโve not been during mealtime but Iโve tried a number of the small plates, which are a quite a change from the bowls of peanuts or potato chips served around town. (However, these arenโt free.) Iโve loved everything Iโve had here, from the straightforward cocktails that focus on French spirits, like the Cognac-forward Boulevardier I had last week, but the snacks have always been excellent. The cafรฉ is rather cozy, but the expansive terrace is a gorgeous place to sit in the warmer months.
I went shortly after it opened and Double Dragon (52, rue Saint-Maur, 11th) had a few kinks to work out. They didnโt take reservations so we got there when they opened at 7pm, and there was already a line. The other was the music, which was pretty loud. Thankfully both have calmed down, however they still donโt take reservations, and Double Dragon offers up Asian fare quite a few steps above the other places around town. Opened by the two sisters that operate Le Servan down the street, youโll find little pepper icons on the menu to let you know something is spicy. The server warned us against a few of those things on the menu, then heard my accent, and let me go ;)
The fritters (above) are tofu beignets lined with Comtรฉ cheese, served with a mayo-based XO sauce.ย The thrice-cooked beef with celery was very good, and the Sichuan noodles were, indeed, very spicy. But we both slurped them up.
An old favorite that I hope never changes is Le Petit Vendรดme, known for having some of the best sandwiches in town. True, there are places to sit, but if you want to feel like a local, order a sandwich, saddle up the bar, order a glass of Burgundy, and enjoy the atmosphereโฆand le sandwich. The classic jambon-beurre here is renown.
On the other end of the spectrum is La Fontaine de Belleville, a spiffy, well-polished French cafรฉ, owned by Belleville Brรปlerie, pioneers of the quality coffee movement in Paris. Itโs been restored and serving the legendary coffee thatโs roasted not far from the cafรฉ, and you can also get a classic jambon-beurre sandwich and a Croque Monsieur, then finish up with one of the excellent house-made desserts. The Pain dโรฉpice, shown above, goes great with a pโtit crรจme.
Further up the hill in Belleville, is La Cave de Belleville, a natural wine bar. Often these kinds of wine bars attract a hip crowd, who seems more interested in jumping out of their seats to grab a smoke outside, or check their Likes, rather than doing any serious eating. (Iโm always amazed when a server puts down plates of hot food in front of people, and at that moment, they run outside.)ย Here, everyone stays put as the plates of cheese and charcuterie are hard to walk away from. The one shown (above) was dinner for three of us, along with a plate of burrata that was better than most versions around town. Wines are available by the glass or bottle, and the wine prices are remarkably reasonable.
On the sweet side, I went to a launch party for Aqua Vitae chocolates from Edwart. Edwin, the owner and chocolatier, loves liqueurs and spirits and his new collection of chocolates brilliantly incorporates them. Sometimes when people add liqueurs, they can be too faint to fully appreciate. But each chocolate in this assortment, which includes one blended with Glenfiddish whisky aged in IPA barrels, Del Maguey mezcal and Venezuelan chocolate, and the elusive Chartreuse vรฉgรฉtal elixir (unavailable in the U.S., but comes in a handy wooden box for travel), boldly go where few chocolates dare to go. The collection is available for a limited time only.
The sign outside says โDepuis Hier,โ nothing that theyโve been open โsince yesterday,โ The French Bastards have arrived on the Paris pastry scene. There are babkas and cruffins, as well as a formidable lemon meringue tart (which is meant to be for one, but I think itโd feed four), but their regular vienoisserie, the croissants and pains au chocolat (above), are outstanding. One day the exceptionally friendly bรขtards called me into the kitchen and sliced into a slew of trial batches, to taste. Their croissants are larger than others around town, but as buttery flakes and shards flew around while we sampled, I learned that theyโve hit their stride and this is a bold new addition to the pรขtisseries of Paris.
Starting a meal with a drink is a French tradition, during lโheure de lโapรฉro, or apรฉritif hour. This Kiss & Fly (above) at Mino was a refreshing twist on the spritz, a blend of Pimmโs, lemon, ginger cordial, finished off with grapefruit soda and prosecco. While this is a very competent cocktail bar with friendly bartenders, the food is quite good, too. The menu changes frequently but the flavors (and decor) continue to be drawn from the Mediterranean.
Staying by the sea, the nautical theme at Copper Bay will take you away from being in a bustling city center, along with a line-up of seasonal cocktails shaken and stirred up by the friendly staff. There may be a Tipsy Tea, their interpretation of a Pimmโs No. 1 Cup, or a Tzatziki, made with dill-infused vodka, basil, cucumber, and mastic spirit. You can also get artisan sparkling apple cider or pastis (with or without orgeat syrup), served by the glass, carafe, or even frozen.
Considered the oldest cocktail bar in Paris, Gallopin has expanded to the space next door, for the more casual La Rรดtisserie Gallopin featuring cocktails on tap, created by one of the best bartenders in Paris, Stan Jouenne. His coffee-fueled Negroni combines Grand Brรปlot coffee-Cognac liqueur, Salers (gentian) and Dolin vermouth, all from France, as the bar only uses French spirits. I havenโt eaten at their rรดtisserie yet (it just opened this week), but if this drink is any indication, we might both want to check out the food.
Someone requested the recipe for these Socca Chips on social media, which are available at the Fรฉdรฉration Franรงaise de lโApรฉritif, which is like asking the recipe for Fritos. Itโs not going to happen, at least in anyoneโs home. (If you do have a recipe for Fritos, please forward it to me!) But as I often say, everything doesnโt need to be available everywhere, all the time. Itโs often best just to go somewhere and enjoy it there, which holds especially true for the FFA, as this apรฉritif bar is called. Only French products line the shelves, including buckwheat galette (crรชpe) chips, that are also โRecipe, pleaseโ worthy, and a changing selection of cheese and meats to go with whatever youโre drinking.
Combat may seem like an unusual name for a Parisan bar (in my next book, I explain why), but you donโt need to know why right now, you just need to go to what is one of my favorite cocktail bars in Paris. The drinks arenโt over-the-top (thank youโฆ) but straightforward, and delicious. For some reason, the bar height and size works perfectly for me; I always feel like Iโm dining (or drinking) in someoneโs home, rather than in a bar. The cocktail I prefer is the Perfect Serve, above, with whiskey, dried pear, sherry, ume liqueur, and a touch of absinthe. The name is spot-on.
While I avoid the term โindustry favorite,โ a number of bartenders in Paris have told me they like Sherry Butt. Theyโve got a beguiling list of drinks, which changes, but I recently enjoyed a Ronin (above), with Japanese whisky, madiera infused with pandan (a tropical plant), oloroso sherry, Champagne, smoked sea and โ whew โ black salt. It sounded more complicated than it was, and Iโm always amazed when a bartender can add a curiously diverse list of ingredients to a glass, and make it taste like simple liquid. Thatโs a skill worth raising a glass to, which we did.
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