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Le Mary Celeste

The cocktail resurgence has hit Paris big-time (and itโ€™s hit me too), and the team who created Candelaria and Glass, two of my favorite places in Paris, have another hit on their hands with Le Mary Celeste. This corner bar in the Marais is named after a ship in the nineteenth century that left New York and was later found adrift and abandoned. No oneโ€ฆ

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Freddieโ€™s Deli

[Update: As of November 2015, Freddieโ€™s Deli has closed and Kristin has turned it intoย GreenHouse.] Parisians have been welcoming an influx of foods coming from a few unexpected shores for a number of years now โ€“ tacos, hamburgers, tortillas, banh mi in mobile form, and now, pastrami. Iโ€™ve never seen anyone with a more far-away look of longing than my French partner after recounting aโ€ฆ

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Eclairs in Paris

Iโ€™m often asked about upcoming trends and each time it happens, I am sorely tempted to respond, โ€œIf I could see the future, Iโ€™d be buying lottery tickets.โ€ I guess it makes good press โ€“ but the unfortunate thing about most trends is that they are often temporary. (In many cases, itโ€™s a relief to see them go when their time is up.) Yet otherโ€ฆ

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Paris Safety Tips

Paris is a relatively safe city, as cities go, and recently, I was having a discussion with someone about places to be wary about traveling to and was told that the only place in the world that they felt unsafe was inโ€ฆ.San Francisco. (And they were from Naples!) So anything can happen anywhere in the world and petty crime sometimes occurs in places where youโ€ฆ

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La Graineterie du Marche

There are a number of โ€œmust-doโ€ lists in Paris, places where people just have to go while theyโ€™re here. Often people have limited time, and I hear ya, so I might suggest the departments stores on the Boulevard Haussman, Printempts and Galeries Lafayette (although even since Printemps started charging โ‚ฌ1,5 to use the restrooms, Iโ€™m inclined to go to the Galeries Lafayette, just on principle.)โ€ฆ

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Ciel de Paris

[UPDATE: As of June 2025, Ciel de Paris has closed.] Most people already know that a good view doesnโ€™t necessarily go hand-in-hand with a remarkable culinary experience. But Iโ€™d gone to Ciel de Paris many years ago and found the food pas mal. And to top it off, it was reasonably priced, which is so often not the case in places that tend to attractโ€ฆ

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Change

One of the things that you need to have when shopping for food in France is a big, sturdy shopping basket. You also need to have a bit of patience because the lines can be long, and lines in Paris are like airplane restrooms; when itโ€™s your turn, everyone behind you disappears and suddenly, you seem to have all the time in the world. Butโ€ฆ

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Verjus Sandwiches

[UPDATE: Verjus is no longer serving sandwiches in their wine cellar, nor are they open for lunch. The regular restaurant is still open for dinner and the wine bar is open in the evening for wine and top notch bar snacks.] A friend whoโ€™s been living here quite long time once wondered aloud to me, why Parisians sandwich-makers werenโ€™t more creative. I never really thoughtโ€ฆ

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Le Rubis

After all this time youโ€™d think that I would have figured out how to go back to older postings here on the site, update them, then bring them up to the front. Because if things change on a subsequent visit, or if I hear something major has changed, I like to make sure weโ€™re all in the same loop. But not being so tech-savvy, Iโ€ฆ

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