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Sometimes when Iโ€™m dining with others, the conversation has a way of drifting towards organ meats. Which we Americans, in general, tend to avoid. I guess it makes us an easy target and since I donโ€™t like them much either, you may as well paint a bulls-eye on my foreheadโ€ฆ

โ€œYou Americans!โ€ I hear, โ€œYou are afraid to eat anything.โ€

But by now, Iโ€™ve gotten pretty good at this.

So I respond, โ€œWell, do you eat dog?โ€

To which they responded with appreciable horror.

โ€œWell, some people from other cultures eat dogs and cats. Do you eat them?โ€

Touchรฉ.

laitdejument.jpg

I never understand why people feel they have to convince you to eat something you donโ€™t want. Whatโ€™s it to them? Take squid, for example.

Theyโ€™re repulsive, vile, hideously ugly creatures who deserve to die a fiery deathโ€ฆpreferably breaded and deep-fried. With dipping sauce. I was terrorized by one once in my youth and never forgot that horrible, horrible day: My sister and her friends chased me around the house with the Marine World brochure, open to the double-page center spread of a giant squid. I hid under the bed, but when they tossed the wide-open book under there with me, no amount of counseling later in life would get me over that psycho-trauma. I can still smell the dusty carpet, which I was hugging in fear for my life, and taste my salty tears to this very day whenever I see any and all tentacled beasts. Iโ€™m sure you can understand that being presented with a pile of them on a plate holds zero appeal for me. Canโ€™t you?

Still, people insist, telling me, โ€œBut you havenโ€™t tried my fried squidโ€ or โ€œAt (insert cheap ethnic restaurant name here), they have the best clay pot/deep-fried/sautรฉed squid in the world. You just gotta try it. You donโ€™t know what youโ€™re missing!โ€

Well, actually. If I refuse to eat itโ€”what I donโ€™t know, I canโ€™t possibly miss. Now can I?

Anyhow. A few months ago I was at Le Grand ร‰picerie, Parisโ€™ most exclusive supermarket. Due to the hefty prices and the fact itโ€™s not in my neighborhood, it ainโ€™t my usual go-to supermarket. But there I was, shopping for chocolate and thought Iโ€™d pick up some milk. How much more could it be there than elsewhere?

So I walked over to the milk and was ready to grab a bottle when I noticed the price. 12โ‚ฌ.Whoa Nelly!

12โ‚ฌ for a liter of milk? โ€“ Thatโ€™s about $15 per quart!

Then I noticed a picture of a little filly on the label; It was lait de Jument, horse milk. Then I really had reason to say โ€˜Whoa Nelly.โ€™ Whoโ€™d a thunk it?

Since I posted a few weeks back about hamburgers made of horse meat, Iโ€™ve been thinking that it would make an interesting story about cooking my first piece of it. But every time I passed a chevaline, or horse butcher (and stop squirming: all of it here comes from North America), one look at the juicy, bloody-red slabs of meat made me think again. Thereโ€™s only so much Iโ€™ll do for my readers. Getting me to eat Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream is one thing. Frying up a thick, rare slab of horse flesh is another.

But last time I was at Le Grand ร‰picerie, I noticed smaller bottles of Lait de Jument and thought it was time to give it a try. I canโ€™t be an American wuss forever. Can I? So I brought home a little bottle. Then I chickened out.

Luckily for me, shortly afterwards the doorbell rang. And when I opened it, there was my friend Brett, visiting from San Francisco. Seizing the opportunity, I dragged him in and started lining up the shot glasses. Because we all know that he eats (and actually, gulp, likesโ€ฆ) squid, I figured horse milk was a no-brainer. So I uncapped the lid and started pouring.

brett&namita.jpg

We sniffed, then we swallowed. Then we looked at each other to see our reactions.

Not bad, we agreed. Not as shocking as weโ€™d thought. We detected a light, hazelnut-like taste. The consistency was slightly watery, like reconstituted powdered milk, if youโ€™ve ever had that. The bottle said it was a โ€œgood substitute for motherโ€™s milkโ€, which was nice to know in case I ever get another craving for that. (Although I havenโ€™t in the last 47 years, so I think Iโ€™m finally over it.)

The best part is now I have an ever better defense when defending some of my all-American eating habits. Just the mention of drinking horse milk to my French friends makes their face curl up in disbelief and a little bit of disgust. Yet itโ€™s available right in their own backyard.



Related Links

โ€“Plus dโ€™information sur Lait de Jument.

-Not a pretty pour. (I drank that?)

-But it may make you pretty.

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33 comments

    • Robert

    Take squid, for example.

    More like: Take squid, please. ;)

    • Eye_carl

    David you are a brave man, bravo to you, thats for sure. You have to try it with cheerios, let me know.

    • ulterior epicure

    On my last trip through Italy, I encountered bresaolo di cavallo. i love bresaolo, but had never encountered a horse version. I inquired where to get it and was sent to a butcher on the outskirts of Milan (the city I was passing through at the time). He had different cuts of horse meat โ€“ and that coveted brasaolo. What a treat. I love offal, and tend to always choose the strangest option available when diningโ€ฆ no cruel sister & Co. to speak of, though.

    • eg

    You are very braveโ€ฆ.

    • Johnny

    David, this was a funny blog! You reminded me of the movie โ€œThe Squid and the Whaleโ€. If I remember correctly, the kid there was traumatized by a picture in the museum of a giant squid entangling a whale. When he grew up he went back to the museum to โ€œface his fearโ€ because it seemed to be the root of some of his problems growing up. Now if I only know if that museum was real and where itโ€™s located, I could then tell you and perhaps you might wanna consider going there. Hehe.

    • Johnny

    Btw, I canโ€™t imagine anyone who doesnโ€™t like calamari.

    • jo

    Ummmm Horse milk gelatoโ€ฆ..Iโ€™m waitingโ€ฆ*taps toes*

    • Brett

    Why the long face? We travel 9 time zones to visit and what do we get? Horse milk. Our initial nays turned to neighs, though, and we tried it. As David says, it wasnโ€™t so bad. A little chalky. A little hazelnutty.

    David, you more than made up for the horse milk when you gave us a taste of your perfect new salted butter caramel ice cream. Smart move. Otherwise Iโ€™d be scheming to come up with a way to get you to eat squid without knowing it next time you visit the Bay Area.

    • Connie

    How does one milk a horse ? There is another blog for you!

    • Jen

    โ€œI never understand why people feel they have to convince you to eat something you donโ€™t want. Whatโ€™s it to them?โ€

    No kidding. I mean, Iโ€™m a fairly adventurous eater, but I draw the line at things like balut (donโ€™t click on that link if youโ€™re easily grossed out!), which my cousinโ€™s boyfriend was always trying to get me to sample when I lived in Hawaii. You could not PAY me enough.

    On the other hand, Iโ€™ll try most dairy products, regardless of animal of origin. And if you donโ€™t tell me what certain organ meats are before I eat them, thereโ€™s a much greater chance Iโ€™ll just shovel โ€™em in whilst being blissfully ignorant; duck gizzards on toast come to mind โ€” they were really goodโ€ฆ.but if Iโ€™d known what they were beforehand, I wouldโ€™ve balked.

    Squid, though? Meh. And eating it fried is like eating deep-fried rubberbands. Okay as a vehicle for sauce, I suppose, but otherwiseโ€ฆnot so much.

    • zonder

    hi David, can you believe that there are people who eat cockroach/es for the alleged medical benefits? (does it taste like chicken?). i havenโ€™t tried and wonโ€™t even dare toโ€ฆseriously, โ€œsome people from other cultures eat dogs and cats..โ€ and thatโ€™s a sad truth, even in the PI. as if thatโ€™s not sad enough, news have it that even dolphins, sea turtles and other endangered animals are not spared from being eaten. groups against cruelty to animals, like PAWS & WWF, are doing their best to put an end to this scenario. but itโ€™s still a long way to goโ€ฆthanks for your blog, itโ€™s a must-read.

    • Delilah

    Haha, I like your comment about eating dog. Iโ€™ll have to use that the next time Iโ€™m pressured to eat something I donโ€™t like.

    • Kevin

    You can lead a man to a horse but you canโ€™t make him drink!

    • Connie

    Just try to be a vegetarian in Houston !

    • Lesley

    I was born in America but my parents are European and thus I grew up eating a lot of weird food (well, weird for Americans). Haggis, anyone? Try explaining tripe and head cheese to your 10-year-old friends. And oh, Spam! My mother grew up in London during WW2 and Spam on toast was yum yum.

    And still, I have to say, the thought of horse milk made me queasy to the point of skipping my lunch today. And Iโ€™m not easily queased out by food!!

    • Dromeda

    Zonder, Iโ€™m not seeing why you think eating dogs, cats, dolphins and sea turtles is โ€œsadโ€. Yes, itโ€™s bad to eat endangered species NOW becauseโ€ฆwell, theyโ€™re endangered. But dogs? Cats? Is there a logical reason to not eat them? Some possible deadly disease to get from eating one? Does the meat just not taste good? The only thing stopping people is the โ€œCute, fluffy and domesticatedโ€ factor. I can see why PAWS and the WWF would try to stop people from eating endangered species (not just sea life, but monkeys and such), even if theyโ€™re the native food in their area, but I donโ€™t see it as cruelty to animals. Puppy mills and houses were there are 22 cats- now thatโ€™s cruelty. Thereโ€™s no reason to think of eating dogs and cats as sad and gross other than weโ€™re trained and used to thinking of them as pets and a non-food source.
    {end soapbox}

    That said, itโ€™d be interesting to try horseโ€™s milk at some point. Iโ€™m always up for at least trying new foods (though Iโ€™m never eating chicken feet again).

    • Nancy

    Very, very funny. The customers in โ€œStarbucksโ€ were I was drinking a skim milk hot chocolate (yes, I know itโ€™s plebian, but better than their coffee) looked at me like Iโ€™d lost my mind when I laughed out loud.

    If you ever want to face your fear of giant squids as Johnny suggested, theirs a very fine specimin at the Field Museum in Chicago. And while youโ€™re in the Windy City you can eat another disgusting food, Chicago Style Hot Dogs. Does anyone really know whatโ€™s in those?

    • David

    Dromeda: I saw a show on CNN International last year (CNN in the US is mostly focused on Brangelina and probably 24/7 with Don Imusโ€™ stupid comments now) and they had a bunch of folks in China sitting around a cauldron eating, umโ€ฆwell, let me just say it was a Fancy Feast of something most of us normally see as domestic pets, not dinner. It was pretty icky. I canโ€™t pin-point the reason it grossed me out. Iโ€™m not a vegetarian, but I did have quite a visceral response to it.

    (And why do they always run those stories on CNN here, when Iโ€™m having breakfast at 7 am? Seeing Larry Burkheadโ€™s frighteningly-bad highlights at that hour is scary enoughโ€ฆ)

    Chicken feet arenโ€™t that off-putting to me. My Chinese friends in San Francisco laugh at me for not eating them so I make the effort to appease them. The horse milk though, I thought, might make me gag.
    But I drank it like a man. And so did Brett.
    (And Namita tooโ€ฆshe was quite a trooper!)

    • Mercedes

    I actually just made stuffed squid for dinner the other night (a la Russ Parsons), and while it was good, I couldnโ€™t help thinking Iโ€™m really glad I donโ€™t have to eat squid everyday.

    As for milk, camels milk is very good, and it is amazingly white. If you put it next to regular (cow) milk the cow milk looks yellow in comparison.

    • lori

    Wow, and I thought that drinking carabaoโ€™s (water buffaloโ€™s) milk was the most exotic that it got.

    • izzyโ€™s mama

    I am often guilty of trying to convince people to eat things they would otherwise not and I will tell you why..I take great satisfaction in upsetting their pre-conceived notions of what is tasty and what is not. Twenty years ago in Paris, I served my French boyfriend a toothsome oxtail stew. He was enjoying it heartily when he stopped and said, โ€œCโ€™est delicieuxโ€ฆQuโ€™est-ce que cโ€™est?

    When he heard the reply he immediately put his fork down and stopped eatingโ€ฆ

    That being said, if I thought I was drinking cowโ€™s milk and was then told it came from a horse..I might just feel compelled to set down my glass and ponder that for a minute.

    • barbara

    A horse walked into a bar, the barman said โ€œWhy the long face?โ€

    • Jane

    Ho ho Iโ€™m learning something, we do have horse milk at le Bon Marchรฉ, my gosh !!!
    Iโ€™am not surprised with this, le Bon Marchรฉ is doing โ€œnโ€™importe quoiโ€ to be trendy and more and more expansive, no no whatโ€™s surprising me, itโ€™s that you, David our American in Paris are talking about this :-))and not a frenchy guy, shame on us :-)))
    My best regards

    Jane (Paris Batignolles)

    • Judith in Umbria

    Since I donโ€™t like milk at all on its own, one seems like another. I might quail at say whale milk. If you make it into cheese, you have my attention!

    • Lucy Vanel

    The way David Described it I thought it might make a nice creme anglaise.

    • Christina

    Like Connie wondered, How does one milk a horse ? Ok, my imagination isnโ€™t that bad, but still โ€ฆ Itโ€™s a somewhat funny picture in that process.

    But back to weird foods. Iโ€™m from Sweden so Iโ€™ll say mountains of herring โ€” herring in all shapes and flavors. Fermented herring, anyone? It is interesting, though, how much meaning we put into what we eat, what we can eat and what we canโ€™t. As long as you donโ€™t die from it I think itโ€™s worth trying. Donโ€™t have me eat oysters, though โ€ฆ Tried it and donโ€™t want to do it again.

    • faustianbargain

    david, actually, donkeyโ€™s milk is the closest substitute to breast milk. the one i tried was from hungary, iirc. donkey meat salami(very different) and donkeyโ€™s milk. i find out later that donkey milk used to be a very common substitute for breast milk in india. these days, it is not that commonly available except if you make a โ€˜special requestโ€™ to those who keep donkeys. these are usually the guys who have been clothes laundrers for generations.

    • Sharon

    David, Iโ€™m sorry I traumatized you for life over the โ€œMarine World Brochure Incidentโ€.
    xoxo, your sister

    • Lee Geise

    Donโ€™t worry, David, soon there will be no more American horse meat exported to Europe. Our federal and state legislators are systematically putting up block walls to this nonsense. Three of the four working horse slaughterhouses here in the US have been recently shut down due to law changes. Perhaps our enlightened neighbors to the north and south will take up where we left off but soon we will not be party to the horsemeat for human consumption trade.

    We Americans donโ€™t โ€œfarmโ€ horses to sell them for meat. We breed them to ride, drive, show, and work. Those that are shipped overseas are the old, infirm, injured, and come from racing, farms, ranches, etc. The only reason this is a โ€œdelicacyโ€ over there is because itโ€™s very cheap to source it in the US (40 cents a pound) and then make a killing on the markup.

    I hate to be snotty but the Europeans are being taken for a ride on the pricing and marketing of this disgusting food. And theyโ€™re not very smart either when choosing to ingest meat that comes from animals which throughout their lives are routinely and continuously medicated with strong pesticides, worming medications and very likely also with other meds to deal with infirmities and injuries suffered in the last months/years before going off to slaughter.

    I am a horse owner and well versed in the horse sports industries, and with that insight, I would NEVER EVER eat horse meat. Why would I want to with the plethora of toxic substances that are likely to be in that meat? Horses are sprayed with toxic fly spray daily or they live in barns that have automatic chemical sprayers to keep a cloud of fly spray misting every hour 24/7. Every fly spray, worming medication and other medication Iโ€™ve ever administered to a horse states plainly on the label: NOT TO BE USED FOR ANIMALS INTENDED FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION. Actually the US is doing Europeans a big favor by stopping the disgusting flow of horsemeat to their countries โ€“ if they donโ€™t have enough commonsense not to eat tainted food, well, we can at least quit sending it to them!

    If they want horsemeat so badly, they should raise their own, just like they do cattle, pigs, sheep, chickens, etc. Hate to be the voice of reality but โ€œthere is no free lunchโ€ and โ€œif it sounds too good to be true, it probably isโ€ and โ€œjust because you close your eyes doesnโ€™t mean that all the bad stuff goes awayโ€โ€ฆ..

    Donโ€™t eat horsemeat, David. Not a good idea at allโ€ฆ and I havenโ€™t even addressed the psycho-social reasons why one should not eat the animal who all through history until the automobile was created was manโ€™s vital partner to explore new lands, transporting him and his goods, working the fields and woods for him, carrying him to plentiful hunting grounds and fertile farming lands โ€ฆ. thatโ€™s a whole other aspect but personally I think the toxic chemicals should be more than enough to dissuade rational people from partaking.

    • Robin

    Squid milk, anyone?

    • Amy

    I wish I was in your circle, Iโ€™d try it.

    • RV Goddess

    Another interesting column, David. I had no idea horses were โ€œmilkedโ€ for retail sale.

    • Liz

    I missed this post the first time around, but just had to comment now because,

    1. I canโ€™t believe you bought the horse milk! I remember seeing it at Le Grand Epicerie when I lived in Paris, but never actually saw anyone buy it (not for lack of surreptitious surveillance of the milk case). Impressed. As a horse lover I actually wouldnโ€™t have any problem trying horse milk on principle, itโ€™s more imagining the conditions in which it commercially is produced that would give me pause.

    2. You milk a horse just like you milk any other animalโ€ฆ Squeeze, squirt, squeeze, squirt. (TMI?)

    3. I always assumed that lait de jument comes from the same horses they breed for meat (and, though most horse meat in France does come from the US, they actually still breed and slaughter some horses in France specifically for meat โ€“ I saw a heard of them when I was down near the Pyrenees. They looked a lot like the little guy in these posters http://www.jenemangepasdecheval.com/tract1.html, which were all over Paris last winter. Also, a lot like the silhouette on the milk bottle.) But, at least at the site you linked to, theyโ€™re actually using Merens horses, which are a native โ€“ and rare โ€“ French breed mostly used for riding and driving. Interesting! That, possibly naively, made me feel better about the whole thing.

A

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