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Kumquat Marmalade

Iโ€™ve been on a marmalade bender lately. Well, itโ€™s actually been for the last few weeks. Winter, of course, is marmalade season and the markets in Paris are heaped with citrus: Corsican clementines, pretty yellow bergamots, hefty pink grapefruits from Florida (although some infer appellations from elsewhere โ€“ namely, the Louvre), leafy lemons from Nice, and lots and lots of oranges. The stands are soโ€ฆ

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Monaco, Max, Martell, His Majesty, and Me

Iโ€™m tired. Or as Madeleine Kahn more bluntly put it in Blazing Saddles, โ€œG-ddammit, Iโ€™m exhausted.โ€ The last few weeks Iโ€™ve been racing around Paris in my dusty clothes, trying to find things like electrical switches, bathroom shelves, and making a decision about kitchen cabinet knobs for much longer than any sane person would consider prudent. And Iโ€™ve been averaging about three hours of sleepโ€ฆ

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Poached Prunes and Kumquats

Prunes are serious business in France and unlike Americans, it doesnโ€™t take any name-changing to get the French to eat them. Prune fans, like me, are partial to those from Agen, in Gascony, which are mi-cuit; partially-dried. Their flavor is as beguiling and complex as a square of the finest chocolate. Interestingly, the prunes cultivated in California are grafted from the same prunes grown inโ€ฆ

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