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Fraises des bois

When I worked as a baker in California, weโ€™d get three flats of fraises des bois (โ€œstrawberries of the woodsโ€, or wild strawberries) for a few precious weeks in the summer, cultivated by a woman who lived about an hour north of San Francisco. Each intensely flavored berry, no bigger than the tip of a pencil eraser, had to be hand-picked and took someone nearlyโ€ฆ

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