Plum Kernel Ice Cream Recipe
Last month, I received an invitation to visit the French Sénat where laws are debated and decided on, or not. Like most of the government buildings here in Paris, this is one spectacular. It’s very ornate with lots of gilding and chandeliers and gardens that are plucked and shaved within an inch of their life. Gardens are well-manicured in France and are meant to be looked at, not touched…ne touchez pas!) Plus there was a gorgeous dining room where les Sénateurs dine.
I was invited because there was an exhibition of foods and wines from the Lot-et-Garonne and Gascony.
There was a nice selection of foods to try. Lots of foie gras, some Gascon cheeses, and of course, pruneaux d’Agen…and lots of them. Since they were free, I ate as many as I could, especially the ones stuffed with chocolate-flavored prune filling. I was in prune heaven! (Except the next day—I paid the price for my gluttony.)
But one of the most interesting things was huile de noyau, also known as huile d’amande de pruneaux, or simply plum oil—to us American-types, due to a rebranding of prunes, to call them “dried plums.” It’s the oil pressed from plum kernels, which have a deep bitter almond scent that I love. It’s a flavor that goes amazingly well with fruits such as plums, apricots and raspberries, but I was little curious as what to do with the oil
“Hmmm”, I thought, as I unscrewed the cap and took a deep sniff of the oil, which had the strong aroma of bitter almonds. And my mind started churning.
While the reps gave me some savory suggestions, being a sweets guy, I had other ideas. I poured a teeny bit into a batch of granola that I was mixing it up, which gave it a lovely almond under-note. And I added a tiny drizzle to a bowl of steamy pumpkin soup (although, I swear…that was my last bowl of soup I’m eating this winter.) Since it’s pure oil, it can be added to cake batter or melted chocolate as well and I’m thinking of making a ganache with it when I get my act together. Or it might be fun with marshmallows too?
But it seems like most things around here eventually wind up in my ice cream maker. And this plum oil was no exception.
I’ve nicknamed this; The Ice Cream You May Not Make, due to the scarcity of prune kernel oil outside of France although you can get your hands on some prune kernel oil here (in France). If you’re searching for it online, make sure the oil you buy is intended for consumption, and food use.
Plum Kernel Oil Ice Cream
- 1 cup (250ml) whole milk
- 2/3 cup (130g) sugar
- big pinch of salt
- 2 cups (500ml) heavy cream
- 5 large egg yolks
- 6 tablespoons (90g) plum oil
- 1/4 cup (30g) dried sour cherries, chopped
- 2 tablespoons eau-de-vie, or another liquor*
- Heat the milk in a medium-size saucepan with the sugar and salt.
- While that’s heating, pour the cream into a metal bowl and set that bowl into a larger bowl with some ice, creating an ice bath. Set a mesh strainer over the top of the empty bowl.
- Whisk the yolks in a small bowl and gradually pour some of the warm milk mixture over the yolks, whisking constantly. Scrape the warmed yolks back into the saucepan and cook the custard using a heatproof utensil, stirring constantly (scraping the bottom as you stir) until the mixture thickens. If using an instant-read thermometer, it should read 160-170F (71-77C).
- Pour the custard through the strainer into the heavy cream set over the ice bath, then stir frequently until the mixture is cooled down. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or until thoroughly chilled.
- Soak the sour cherries in the eau-de-vie, cover, and let them stand overnight, stirring occasionally.
- Whisk the oil into the ice cream custard then freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Drain any liquid off from the cherries (which is a tasty little reward for your efforts) and when you remove the ice cream from the machine, fold in the cherries.
You might be interested in my post, Is it safe to eat apricot kernels?
